YOLO! That’s what I told myself when I decided upon a return trip to Morocco. I’d previously spent time
in the country’s royal capital, Rabat, and Casablanca, the city immortalized by Humphrey Bogart and
Ingrid Bergman in the classic WWII movie, Casablanca. This time, it would be Tangier, “the city of
spies;” Tétouan, the core of Moroccan artistry and culture; and, a return visit to the irresistible
Casablanca, of course. Get ready for an authentic experience, history lessons, high intrigue and
adventure, I surmised. The settings would be within the walls of the once fortified kasbahs, surrounding
the medinas with their serpentine, narrow passageways, swarming souks, and ancient Moroccan and
Andalusian constructions. With the anticipation of a few moments of exotic living, I was all-in. Hey, you
only live once (YOLO)!

What I loved most about Tangier was what I heard about its intoxicating history, complete with turmoil,
indistinct lines between fact and subterfuge, and infamous stories of espionage. British “super spy” and
double agent (MI6 & KGB), Kim Philby, sold his soul for decades, all the while escalating within the
hierarchy of MI6. Tangier was a beloved getaway in which his opportunities for clandestine meetings
were immense due to the city’s former recognition as an international zone or “no man’s zone.” In a city
that operated apart from any other with its own polices and rules, it was easy for Don Kimfull, London
organized crime figure, to retreat into Tangier and operate the storied “Dean’s Bar” –casually surveilling,
intermeddling and snooping within the lair of WWII spies that hung out at his establishment. MI-6 Spy
Ian Fleming, stationed in nearby Gibraltar, was intricately involved in the Tangier espionage landscape
and wrote in the James Bond novels about his covert affairs in Tangier. The Bourne Ultimatum (2007),
SPECTRE (2015), and The Equalizer (2021) are examples of films in which Tangier made a perfect setting.
There was so much more…

As if learning about traitors was not enough, from the strategic and elevated vantage point of Place de la
Kasbah, I was able to savor the views of the point where the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea
fuse; the southernmost coast of Spain; the Strait of Gibraltar; and the architectural treasure of the
blanched medina with all its animation. While breathtaking observation points were very exciting, so
were the experiences of people watching and shopping in the crowded medina’s market for spices, tea,
bedspreads, tablecloths and souvenirs. Because of the inexpensive nature of distinct items in the souks,
it felt like I was searching through a treasure trove. And, oh, how about the meal at historic Café Hafa,
overlooking the Bay of Tangier, opened way back in 1921?

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Tangier is considered “The Door to Africa” but in another sense, the association of the word “door” with
Tangier, brings to mind the magnificent doors in the medina, which are often decorative, carved and
colorful. Each door has its own story and could reveal things like the number of inhabitants residing
there or the residents’ Islamic ideals and beliefs. Some were striking and some looked ancient; but, it’s
what’s behind the doors that were surprising. Some closed off luxurious apartments, elegant hotels and
stunning courtyards. Who knows? There could even be some spy activity going on behind a few of
them! Now, I understand the fixation of artists, writers, agents and tourists on the enigmatic Tangier.

Going on, I’d say that culturally renowned Tétouan was extraordinary. It had a creative flare, intensified
by the artfully displayed offerings of the souks, including long embroidered dresses and caftans in varied
hues, brightly colored scarves, and shawls. My long orange skirt with pants underneath and turban on
my head worked perfectly in this city of Andalusian, Arabic, Jewish and French influences. Even now,
many of the 300,000 residents speak Spanish and French, though Arabic is the official language of
Morocco. From atop the Kasbah on Mount Dersa, I could glean a perfect mental picture of the blending
of Andalusian and Moroccan architecture. Resorts, hotels and clubs that dot the coast were also visible from the Kasbah peak. From the still operational Tétouan Catholic Church, built during the period of the Spanish Protectorate, to the exquisite Moroccan designed Royal Palace on Place Hassan II, this UNESCO World Heritage site is nearly a flawless jewel. And, there were more doors!

Having been recognized as the 2017 City of Crafts and Folk Art by the UNESCO Creative Cities Network,
Tétouan’s medina is unsullied. Many families have handed down their skills and crafts to family
members over generations, selling their goods in the old town. Meticulous tilework and carvings,
colorful pottery, handwoven accessories, delicate embroidery, engravings, and handcrafted, one-of-a
kind jewelry items were typical finds within these white-walled antiquated buildings. At the Artisanal
School of Tétouan (Dar Sanaa), where customary artistic trades are taught, I became absorbed in the
woodcarving and tilework instruction being given to young learners. Check out the craft demonstration
provided below, along with a video of an all-male performance of World Heritage North African Gnawa,
spiritual music and dance using krakebs and drums.

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Fascinatingly, Casablanca was known for its labyrinthine political affairs during WWII. Spies, including
Jazz Great Josephine Baker, also found their way into this redeveloped port city, which was of critical
and strategic importance to both the sides. It simultaneously provided a safe haven to those in exile, refugees, French Resistance fighters, fascists, military greats, traitors, artists and just fascinated observers. Interesting facts!

In Casablanca, I didn’t spend much time at the sites that I had seen previously, like the Hassan II Mosque
(where I explored for hours years ago), United Nations Square or the royal palace. A quick return trip to
the old medina, while characteristically similar, left the impression of not being as inviting as the
medinas in Tangier and Tétouan and, it was difficult to detect quality goods. However, the central
market, in the “modern” area of the city, was spectacular- showcasing fresh seafood, fruit, vegetables,
spices, and flowers, as well as snacks and meals prepared nearby and for sale every single morning. That
was great to know because the next day was dedicated to a fun-filled cooking class in a suburban home,
using produce from that very market!

First, we were welcomed by our instructor into her special reception room for guests with tea and
Moroccan sweets. There, we discussed the menu for the class which included chicken pastilla, using
warqa pastry layers, almonds and honey; chicken tagine with olives; pepper salad; eggplant salad; and
couscous with meat and vegetables. Participating in the process of steaming and fluffing the couscous
with olive oil and water multiple times, I discovered why my previous attempts at making couscous did
not produce exciting results. This couscous literally melted in my mouth! Without a doubt, fresh
ingredients, the right spices, and technique produced an array of flavorsome selections for our meal (see
bottom of page).

I left that residence stuffed and sluggish from the huge amount of food I consumed, all the while
pleasurably thinking of what someone once said: You only live once, but if you do it right, once is
enough.

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